Killen’s in the heights hits all the right notes
By Jim Ayres
Call this place Killen’s Greatest Hits, if you will. Ronnie Killen, one of the Houston area’s best known (and most handsome) chefs, has launched several highly rated restaurants since his eponymous Steakhouse opened in Pearland in 2006.
I raved about Killen’s Barbecue, also in Pearland, in these pages back in 2020, praising the pork ribs (“Oh my Lord, these are barbecue Heaven!â€), the baked beans (“What you’d expect in someone’s backyard on the Fourth of July.â€) and the potato salad (“Like H-E-B’s, except the seasonings are bolder and the potatoes cooked just so.â€).
You can get these ribs — and the potato salad, and the beans — at Killen’s in-town location at 101 Heights Boulevard, site of the late Hickory Hollow. They’re just as tender and not-so-lean as I remember them. They’re also $22 a pound, but half a pound will easily satisfy you.
But the James Beard Award-nominated chef didn’t build his empire on BBQ alone. Pearland also offers the
mighty Killen’s Burgers, and the five burgers on offer in the Heights come from that menu. The Cafeteria Burger I tried was bun-crowned royalty, a perfect medium rare with all the traditional toppings and American cheese.
I’m not a fan of fresh cut fries, so often touted as “gourmet†when in reality they’re cheaper than frozen, but the ones with my burger upped the ante by lowering the grease factor.
On my latest visit I beheld an enormous Chicken Fried Chicken that was as crispy, warm and delicious as anyone could ever ask for. I couldn’t finish it, but I dared not bring the rest home lest the crust turn soggy, DoorDash style.
And the greatest hits keep on coming. From Killen’s STQ (Inwood & Voss) you can try a Pecan Smoked Pork Belly with a fiery cherry habanero BBQ glaze, or a Chicken Fried Ribeye steak with mashed potatoes and gravy.
From Killen’s TMX (Tex-Mex, also in Pearland) why not savor a batch of Creamed Corn Empanadas topped with queso fresco and a chipotle aioli, or Brisket Enchiladas with Pico de Gallo, rice, and beans. Fried Shrimp Tacos are a crusty appetizer.
Hungry for a steakhouse experience? Killen’s In the Heights has its woodfire grill at the ready with a 14-ounce Ribeye or an eight-ounce Filet, both USDA Prime, naturally. Start your feast with Deviled Eggs topped with pulled pork and choose side dishes like Grilled Asparagus or a decadent Mac & Cheese. Both are the bomb.
Dessert options are plentiful. I can vouch for the Carrot Cake, which is better than Barnaby’s! Peach Bread Pudding, Banana Pudding Cheesecake, and an intriguing Brandy Cake are other sweet endings you won’t find elsewhere.
While the dining room lighting makes everyone look glam, Killen’s In the Heights is a fairly casual place where, in the words of Kimberly Kiel who sent in a review via the restaurant’s website: “The key is consistency. The dishes are that good every single time. Chef’s kiss!â€
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