By Jim Ayres

As I peer out the picture window lined in the splendor of giant banana leaves, I’m filled with the joy of a great day! The sun is out, birds are singing, bells are ringing and I’m in a jolly fine mood.

Maybe it’s because I’m nibbling on another one of Le Colonial’s daydreamy Glazed Pork Ribs.

Yes, they’re that good. More tender than ribs from some of Houston’s finest barbecue houses, these Suon Nuong bask in a honeyed and agreeably spicy glaze. They’re an appetizer, shareable, but with four good-sized ribs per order, I get them as an entrée. For my own sweet self.

Le Colonial’s Thai-style Sup Ga Cay chicken and coconut soup deliver a big flavor. The buttery (who’s going to argue with that?) broth and the Shiitake and exotic Shimeji mushrooms elevate this classic from something-I-order-every-time-I-have-Thai-food-anyway to something extraordinary.

I’m enamored as well with the ravioli-esque Hanoi steamed rice crepes, Banh Cuon if you’re hungry for Amish farm chicken, and wood ear mushrooms. There’s been a tenderloin version as well. The “crepes” are as light as you’d expect and jam-packed with your chosen protein and veggies.

The bar at Le Colonial retains the scene status it had when it opened, and prices for both food and drink reflect it. As an occasional splurge, a getaway to Colonial French Vietnam is totally worth it!

New gastronomic news

A Houston chain’s new spots have called my name and won my gastronomic heart.

You’ve had WingStop, right? There are so many carryout locations in the Houston area it’s impossible to count them all. Well, wings are OK. They’re flavorful, but kind of small, fine for a pool party or for watching a game.

But what if you want something wing-ish for dinner? What if you’re like me, who loves no part of the chicken more than the thigh? Enter ThighStop!

My mind swirled when I saw it on DoorDash. As they say, “the 11 Wingstop flavors you love, now sauced and tossed on crispy bone-in or boneless thighs…” I couldn’t believe the gift I’d received. It was as if they created it just for me. I ordered some right away.

And I was not disappointed. These ample thighs (much larger than KFC but anything would be) were tender and meaty and doused with Spicy Korean or Hickory Smoked BBQ sauce. I bit right into them, and angels sang. God wept, too, but I steadfastly believe it was the pop-up thunderstorm.

Next time you’re on DoorDash, or at a WingStop, do yourself a favor and go big. Try the thigh!

OK, 50 words left for a small rant: Maggiano’s Little Italy is trying something new, also. It’s called Maggiano’s Italian Classics, and locations feature a tight choice of four or so Maggiano’s entrees, individually sized. I’ve tried the Lasagna and, to give it a second chance, the Chicken Parmesan.

Avoid this place at all costs. Lean Cuisine is better than this frozen slop. And fewer calories, too.

Le Colonial
4444 Westheimer Rd., Houston, TX 77027
713-629-4444
LeColonialHouston.com

ThighStop
4102 Richmond Ave., Houston, TX 77027
800-250-5056
ThighStop.com