Front exterior of Golden, a bagels and coffee shop with yellow outdoor chairs and tables on the sidewalk.

Golden Bagels & Coffee brings a little NYC to The Heights


By Jim Ayres

Heights denizens are thrilled that authentic, New York style bagels are now being served on White Oak. I am, too, as Golden Bagels & Coffee is right across the street from my cat Daisy’s vet. 

But the story I want to tell now is my history with bagels, the ultimate carb. 

During America’s low-fat craze, in the 1980s and 1990s, everyone was on the lookout for a quick easy breakfast without all the fat and cholesterol in bacon and eggs. 

Living in Dallas at the time, with a job that required this young partier to be at work at 8 a.m., I usually skipped breakfast. I’d schlep into the office around 8:15, set my things on my desk, and go down to the convenience store for a Snapple and a bag of pretzels. 

This revolting habit went on until 1993, when I changed jobs. A smaller office meant no convenience store, but a cute breakfast place opened across the street. 

This shop served bagels; I’d never had one before. A co-worker and I went one day so she could show me how to order (always toasted with cream cheese).

Given my meager salary this couldn’t be an everyday thing, but I was hooked. And it began to show. When this place closed, I didn’t worry. Another one, Breugger’s Bagels, opened on Lovers Lane on my way to work. I’d just stop in and get mine to go. And those showed, too.

When I moved to Houston in 1998, low-fat was out and low-carb was in. By 2000 I was Mr. Atkins, back on the bacon and eggs, and back to a weight acceptable for the dance floor at Rich’s. 

It didn’t last long. Though I couldn’t abide the inferior bagels at places like Einstein’s, I was all about toast, waffles, and mimosas. Lots and lots of mimosas. Anyone who knows me now knows what that led to. 

When Daisy had a recent vet visit, I was tempted to jump into the bagel pool again. The bright yellow signage called me over (bright yellow seems to be a thing in the Heights). And I can say that Golden Bagels & Coffee has the best bagels I’ve ever tried.

Golden “celebrates the craftsmanship of classic New York bagels… with a Gulf Coast twist, featuring local cured & smoked fish. We’re focused on providing quality ingredients, amazing service, and locally roasted coffee that you can enjoy all damn day,†according to their website. Oddly, they’re only open until 2 p.m.

I had the Breakfast Egg Sandwich with your choice of bagel (they have 11 flavors; I chose garlic and onion), egg and cheese. But the bagel was about half as dense as you’ll find at the chains, lightly toasted and ultra-chewy inside. Bagel heaven.

My iced coffee (from Katz’s) was excellent. There are a few out-of-the-ordinary spreads available, along with lunch salads and sandwiches.

Golden Bagels & Coffee is a welcome addition to the neighborhood, but even if you don’t live there, it’s worth a trip.

Golden Bagels & Coffee, 3119 White Oak Drive  Houston, Texas 77007. 346-240-3780. GoldenHouston.com

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