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Presidio: Bringing the Valley to the Heights?
Well, maybe. Could be. If they say so. OK, I’ll bite. And boy, did I bite!
Kidding aside, Presidio is one of the newest hot spots in the Heights. Whether they really intend to conjure a Rio Grande atmosphere, I don’t know. But the name’s fine because a restaurant that spotlights Texas food this well deserves an equally Texan identity.
Inside, the walls are découpaged with old Texas maps and older recipe cards from the kitchens of beloved abuelitas. Stained concrete floors are suitably rustic, but the comfortable, homey dining chairs are unexpected.
The Arts and Crafts-inspired windows offer a glimpse of life on busy 11th Street. Two large patios bookend the former and fondly remembered Java Java, but on a hot afternoon, indoors is the place to be.
I was immediately greeted with a very tall bottle of ice-cold water, but I knew a cocktail would refresh me even more. (Costco on Saturday will zap you!) I found it strange that I’d never ordered a Paloma before, so the jalapeno-tinged Paloma 
Picante called my name. Where had this classic tequila and grapefruit combination been all my life? Bright, fresh and delicious—I had two!
If you’re looking for appetizers, Presidio has a long, creative list. I settled on two, the Fried Pickled Okra and the Sweet Potato Beignets. The okra, fresh fromPresidio’s on-site garden, is pickled in-house and coated in a cornmeal batter. Once fried and served hot, the vegetable takes a new direction. Usually squishy, this okra was firm and crunchable.
I also loved the Sweet Potato Beignets. These aren’t the lighter-than-air beignets from Café Du Monde. Nor are they sweet. They’re more like soft, soggy hushpuppies, but please don’t let that deter you. Dusted with smoked paprika and accented with fennel, they’ll remind you of the orange dunes of Namib, but they’ll be much better tasting, I assure you!
If the okra lacked ooze, it came bursting forth from the simply named Texas Beef Burger. All the great burger 
elements are there, including fresh salad fixings, cheddar, and whole grain mustard. The patty has a distinct backyard smokiness that doesn’t overpower, but what really sets it off is a liberal spreading of onion bacon jam. I never knew how much depth a sweet element could bring to a burger.
This whole visit was quite the education for me, wasn’t it? I didn’t have room for any more food that day, but I’ll return to Presidio soon for Granny Rose’s Tacos (with black olives and Pepper Jack…oh yeah!) and
if I’m in a group, a Whole Grilled Rainbow Trout (my favorite fish).
And a special word for Presidio’s warm and welcoming staff: Everyone made sure everybody had a wonderful time. Chef Adam Dorris, formerly of Pax Americana, has done an amazing job bringing that sensibility to Presidio’s more casual vibe and price point. The biggest bonus of all? Ample parking for all! Presidio just gets everything right.
Presidio
911 W. 11th Street
Houston, Texas 77008
832-740-4574
www.presidiohtx.com
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