A sign that says surya india

Surya a joyful discovery 

By Jim Ayres 

Indian cuisine is so fragrantly comforting. To find it so fresh, so full of spice and care and love, in a quiet inner-loop spot is a joyful discovery. 

This was a dinner I’d been looking forward to for ages. My friend Bill raves about Surya and has taken several friends there. This was my night to be amazed. 

According to Chef Sheel Joshi, “At Surya, we present traditional North Indian food with respect to heritage: no gimmicks, chili meters, or buffets. But we also appreciate the adventurism of today’s palate and borrow dishes from the South of India.†

Indeed, Surya’s menu reads like the “greatest hits†of the Indian dishes we’ve loved around the U.S. and Britain. Samosas, tandoori, curries, vegetarian dishes, naan, and roti — they’re all accounted for.  

And they’re all delicious. Of course, Bill and I couldn’t possibly hit the whole menu, but here’s a recap of what we tried and swore to return for. 

Our first starter was a Seekh Kabab with lamb sausage, onions, Serrano peppers, cilantro and garam masala. Did the flavors come together in my mouth as one, as I’ve often written? No, they didn’t, and the dish is better for it. It was a chorus line of the earthy and the piquant, each dancer getting my attention in a unique way. 

We also tried Chilli Chicken, an Asian inspired dish with Indian spices. Aromas exploded at the table as this deceptively simple dish was served. The chicken was tender, as creamy as the indulgent sauce. The Turkey Samosa was an Indian style empanada stuffed with spiced ground turkey. We liked it. 

As an entrée, Chicken Tikka Masala was the best rendition of the classic curry I’ve had in a long time. A little bit spicy — not too much — the flavors were the stars here. I think the tomato butter sauce could cure any number of maladies.  

And how much did we love the Malai Kofta? These cheese and potato dumplings with cumin, Serrano peppers and cilantro, prepared in a cashew/almond cream sauce, were decadently over the top and the best thing we feasted on that night.  

A word about sides. Garlic Naan, at $3.50, was a price I expected to pay. And it’s lovely, charred more urgently than some other naans I’ve tried. But saffron flavored basmati rice at $4 wasn’t. Usually dishes like these come with rice, but in the end, I don’t mind paying for excellence. 

If you miss a certain gentility that used to be part of dining out, Surya may be your grail. House rules include no cell phone usage in the dining room (good pics of the food are hard to find). Business casual is de rigueur, and Surya only accommodates adult guests. How’s that for a refined evening? 

I can’t recommend Surya highly enough. Parking is free and easy, but check their website for hours, which can be complicated. Let me know what you think when you go! 

Surya 
700 Durham Drive, Houston, TX 77007 
713-864-6667  
SuryaHouston.com

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