PACIFIC COAST TACOS

A mixed bag, California style

By Jim Ayres ––

Pacific Coast Tacos, Houston’s homegrown specialty taco shop with a new location just a block from my apartment, called my name even before it opened. So long I waited. My recent hospital stay came and went, and the place still wasn’t ready.

Now it is, supposedly, and a friend and I had a recent lunch there.

Before I go into the highs and lows, here are the basics: Pacific Coast Tacos started in a formerly popular watering hole on Westcott. A couple of Sugar Land locations followed, and now a fourth one on South Shepherd.

Think Torchy’s, but with California and Asian influences. Pacific Coast is nicer inside than Torchy’s — brighter, more spacious. Which made the restaurant’s lack of customers stand out.

Other than a table of cops, we were the only other patrons, at the usual weekday lunch rush time. Pacific Coast does have its highlights, but I think it also has some flaws that need attention before this location can become a success.

One of those highlights was my Tom Kha Soup. Ah, Tom Kha. That and a wedge salad I’ll always order from any menu, anywhere.

This soup was fabulous. Vermicelli rice noodles were a non-traditional addition to the dish, and with the coconutty, buttery broth, chicken, mushrooms and cilantro, I could have slurped this stuff for the rest of the day and into the next.

I wish I could say the same for the tacos I ordered. The menu features 20 (!) of them, many intriguing enough for a return visit. Pacific Octopus? Cali Cowboy? I’m game. But for this lunch, I got the Shrimp Brochette and Korean Beef.

Of the two, the Korean Beef was better. A lot was stuffed into it — too much ground beef, cabbage, cilantro and a generic chili sauce. But where was the gojuchang? The kimchi? I’d expect Pacific Coast to use these simple and familiar ingredients for more authentic Korean flavor.

My friend’s Bang Bang Shrimp Taco fared a little better, but again, Sriracha rather than a genuine Bang Bang sauce? (It’s a thing… Google for recipes.) He didn’t say too much about the shrimp itself, so I will.
The shrimp in my Shrimp Brochette Taco was mealy as hell. Day old, maybe two. Bacon, sautéed peppers, and a glob of Monterey Jack didn’t help matters. This was a soggy, inedible mess, something you’d expect on taco night at a state prison.

Fortunately, my friend loved his Yellowfin Tuna Nachos. I tried a bite, and these nachos have attitude! Brightened by citrus soy sauce, flamed by wasabi and jalapeno, grounded by avocado and a chili-lime aioli, the nachos had an unexpected yet perfect mix of flavors.

Pacific Coast Tacos is a mixed bag. A pricey one, too. Tacos average about six bucks a pop, compared to Torchy’s more appealing options which come in about a dollar less.

Parking in front of the Shepherd location is daunting, but there’s a spacious lot out back which, once Pacific Coast makes some needed revisions, should be full in time for summer’s breezy fare.

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