My dinner with Doris

December 26, 2017
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Laura
Posted in FOODIE DIARIES
1

By Jim Ayres

When I learned Iâ€™d be dining at Doris, I immediately popped in my Pillow Talk DVD. I saw myself as Rock Hudson in a killer black suit/skinny tie/crisp white shirt ensemble. I shook a martini to bossa nova and imagined driving up in my Imperial convertible, there to meet Doris Day in that carmine velvet number for a fabulous tÃªte-Ã -tÃªte.
Alas, this isnâ€™t a Doris Day themed restaurant, though itâ€™s quite cinematic. The first inkling I had of its grandeur was an Instagram photo, posted by CultureMapâ€™s Eric Sandler, of what I call the aging parlor. Much more than a meat locker, it looks like someoneâ€™s living room. Meats lounge about, as if at some swanky cocktail party. And thereâ€™s a chandelier in the middle of it all!
Doris Metropolitan is a brand-new steakhouse on Shepherd, in the former Triniti space. Itâ€™s a mirror of the New Orleans location, with a focus on â€œexpertly prepared dry aged beef and the highest quality meats,â€ according to their website. (The restaurantâ€™s first location opened in 2010 in Costa Rica.)
What sets Doris apart from the pack of established high-end steakhouses in Houston? Plenty, as it turns out. The most glaring difference? Aside from Truffle Steak Fries, thereâ€™s not a potato in sight. I chose the word â€œplentyâ€ carefully as it conjures up the vibrant, Israel-inspired veggie-forward cooking of London chef Yotam Ottolenghi, who wrote a book of the same name.
And thatâ€™s what we have on Dorisâ€™ finely tuned menu of appetizers and sides. Who can resist a mascarpone, ricotta and walnut filled Beet Root? We couldnâ€™t. What a decadent treat! A lighter, though no less astounding, appetizer of Baladi Eggplant, charred with tahini, diced tomatoes, pine nuts and sumac, was alternately tart and earthy.
Of course, we came for the beef. We decided that the Japanese Wagyu selections, priced in the mid-$100s, were best saved for a future occasion. But the 18-ounce Ribeye, with your choice of 21-day or 31-day aging, was remarkable. Thereâ€™s just a $6 cost difference between the two, so splurge on 31-day aging, where the concentrated beef flavor is at its peak. You wonâ€™t regret it.
The steak was tender and expertly prepared, as was the 24-hour short rib my friend ordered. It was a beautiful presentation, spoiled quickly in the best conceivable way as the rich, succulent meat fell right off the bone. Maybe thatâ€™s why they call it â€œFalls Off the Boneâ€ on the menu!
For such a new restaurant, service is confident and exacting. The ambience is spiked with color in the window shades and pampering padded chairs. A highly polished honey wood counter gives way to the gleaming stainless steel of the open kitchen.
Theyâ€™re building out the wine list, which will soon feature a selection of Israeli vintages. For now, Doris has some great California choices that pair effortlessly with steak.
And Doris Metropolitan is effortlessly elegant, just like the great Miss Doris Day. Happy New Year, everyone!