So much to love at FM Kitchen and Bar

January 10, 2018
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Laura
Posted in FOODIE DIARIES
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By Jim Ayres

When I visited Doris Metropolitan recently, I was reminded that the space used to house Triniti, an haute cuisine favorite for several years. I became curious about chef Ryan Hildebrandâ€™s next venture.
Itâ€™s called FM Kitchen and Bar, itâ€™s located just north of Washington off Shepherd, and it is glorious. Not in a fancy way, but in a scrumptious-food-at-a-fantastic-value way.
Wait a second. Wasnâ€™t FM originally supposed to be on Westheimer at the former Ruggles address? Why, yes. It was. Accounts vary, but the vacant lot stayed vacant.
It doesnâ€™t matter in the end. FM is now doing a booming business in Rice Military, and I know Iâ€™ll be adding much to their coffers in 2018.
The buildingâ€™s a concrete and glass box; decor is best described as Ice House Deluxe. Itâ€™s unexpectedly comfortable, though. Chairs are amply padded, and tables are sturdy. A full bar commandeers the northeast corner of the dining room.
If itâ€™s color youâ€™re after, just stay outside. Astroturf abounds, and parents watch kids play a variety of yard games. Itâ€™s great for a nice sunny day.
Great for a cold gray day is an off-menu chicken tortilla soup. Chili powder and cayenne give the broth a brute strength, while the chicken is very tender. Avocado and Pico de Gallo make an attractive presentation. Itâ€™s one of the best soups Iâ€™ve ever had.
Iâ€™d heard fries here are basic, so I ordered Hush Puppies as a side for the terrific burger Iâ€™ll describe in a minute. While the ones I had at Presidio were studded with corn, these have jalapeno embedded in them. Theyâ€™re served with two flavors of tartar-y sauce. Avoid both.
But man, that burger! Imagine a typical roadside burgerâ€”lettuce, tomato, picklesâ€”elevated with the freshest ingredients, a nicely spiced patty and a potato bun. For purists, itâ€™s burger heaven. Just the right size to grab it by both hands and bite right in!
If all that sounds wonderful, my second visit revealed FMâ€™s true glory. Starting with a house chopped salad, I particularly liked the crunchy peanuts, and the grill-charred onion vinaigrette is something to celebrate. Lots of vegetables show up here, with little lettuce (thatâ€™s a plus).
Then I fell into acute, hopeless, supreme food nirvana. I could have been in an opium den, if that den served FMâ€™s Texas Pot Pie. Oh, the sultry filling of smoked brisket, BBQ gravy and vegetables is mighty fine. But what makes this my favorite dish in many years is the cheddar-infused puff pastry topping. Itâ€™s huge, like a fresh batch of Jiffy Pop, and each gorgeous, golden layer begs your admiration.
Youâ€™ve just got to see it to believe it! And the best thing is, nothing at FM is priced over $14.29 (the cost of the pot pie). Food this good at such reasonable prices is a real find in Houston. I encourage you to find FM Kitchen and Bar soon!