Two photos of a restaurant and the menu.

FRENCH CUISINE | Will Maison Pucha succeed where others failed?

By Jim Ayres 

When my friend Bill suggested we have dinner at Maison Pucha, I jumped at the chance. Even though I wasn’t sure what Maison Pucha was. 

I learned that Maison Pucha is the house of the three brothers Pucha, who began their culinary adventure in Deleg, Ecuador. At Maison Pucha, classic French dishes are given an Ecuadorean twist, and the result is a wonderful restaurant I’ll return to again and again. 

Manuel, the chef, has quite a pedigree in Houston. Coming from New York City to join Bistro Moderne at Hotel Derek, he reunited with New York City buddies Philippe Schmit and Jose Hernandez. Manuel soon became executive sous chef at Philippe, Schmit’s namesake restaurant near the Galleria. He became executive chef at that space’s next incarnation, Table on Post Oak. 

Today, Maison Pucha hums in the space previously known as (take a deep breath) Bedford, Stella Sola, Black & White, and possibly others. Although this is, according to PaperCity, “The Heights’ Most Cursed Restaurant Location,†the Pucha brothers have a 10-year lease, so they’re greatly confident. 

If the dinner we had is any indication, I’m confident too. A brilliant Emmolo Napa Valley Merlot started things off. The label may have said Merlot, but its opulent texture and finish assert “Cabernet Sauvignon-lite.†

Beef empanadas with an aji rocoto salsa-ish of red onion, radish, cilantro, and jalapeno were a perfect starter to enjoy with the wine. The crunchy shells had a sandy mouth feel that enhanced the richly spiced beef within. 

I, of course, had to order the wedge salad. I had no regrets. This ice-cold iceberg came with candied pecans, cherry tomatoes, and a house-made bleu cheese ranch dressing. Those candied nuts were the first thing I devoured, and as the old Toyota ad went, “Who could ask for anything more?â€Â 

As our excellent server replenished our glasses, entrees arrived. Previously, I asked our server his choice between coq au vin and steak fries. As lovely a dish as coq au vin usually is, he couldn’t help but hiss “you can get that anywhere!†I appreciated his honesty. 

And his wisdom. The steak fries were among the best I’ve ever had. The certified Angus beef was tender, almost creamy, and cooked to a perfect medium-rare. Maison Pucha’s grandiose menu says that the steak is seared “a la plancha.†Sounded exotic to me, but griddled (what it means) was just dandy.  

Bill’s Scottish salmon was a revelation. I got a couple of bites of this hickory-smoked salmon and its accompaniments, including asparagus risotto, tomato pesto, and lobster foam. My eyes went to the ceiling and my tongue did the tango as the fish went down. It’s hard to imagine a more satisfying salmon dish than this one.  

For a shared dessert, we couldn’t resist the Astrodome (what Houstonian could?). It’s an Ecuadorian chocolate and guava mousse — bet you can’t guess the shape of it — with seasonal berries all around. It was a delightful way to end our exquisite meal at Maison Pucha. 

Maison Pucha 
1001 Studewood 
Houston, TX 77008 
713-637-4976 
MaisonPucha.com

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