BARTENDER OF THE MONTH

Robert’s Lafitte’s ‘Cowboy Tom’

By Johnny Trlica

Commentary: If a church represents a safe space for family, community and acceptance, then by that definition that is what a gay bar is. If bars are the churches for the gay community, then the bartenders are the priests.

Long before the LGBTQ+ community enjoyed the benefits of the gay rights revolution, there was one place they could safely gather: the bar. Pre-Stonewall, Houston had The Exile, open as early as the 1950s, and a few other taverns and Galveston had Lafitte’s, opening in 1965, according to HoustonLGBTHistory.org. These dark, out of the way spaces were the only places to socialize, congregate, share moments and be one’s self at a time when being gay was against the law. It was the drag queens and bartenders, often risking their own personal safety and freedom, which made these places possible.

In this new monthly column, we explore the life and adventures of Houston and Galveston’s bartenders. We start with a well-known bartender in the Montrose bar scene who now enjoys mixing up cocktails on the Island. “Cowboy Tom” is the Bartender of the Month.

Name:

Everybody knows me as “Cowboy Tom.”

Hometown:

I’m from Houston, Texas. I grew up off of the Hempstead Highway (Business 290), now considered the 290 Corridor.

Married, single or “I ain’t telling”?

I am single and comfortable.

Where do you sling drinks?

I sling drinks at Robert’s Lafitte in Galveston — the Island, as the locals call it.

What are some other places you have worked?

I have worked at many bars in the Houston area beginning with Virginia City, which is now called District 249 near Tomball. Then quickly to the Montrose. Let’s see, where did I not work? LOL. I worked at the Montrose Mining Company (the Mining Company), Pacific Street, Bricks II, Decades and last was the Brazos River Bottom (BRB) in Houston.

How long have you been a mixologist?

I have been a bartender full time and part time since 1984. I went to a professional bartending school, which was a mixology school back in that era.

What is your specialty?

My specialty back in the Pacific Street era was called the Barney Shot, named after Barney the dinosaur, ha, ha. These days my shots are orange roofies but with a different bite than most bartenders make. Come by the club at Lafitte’s and I will make either shot for you.

What is your philosophy on being a good bartender?

A good bartender should always be alert to new customers entering the club, also watching the drinks in front of customers already at the bar. (I’m guilty of not always doing the latter.) LOL.

Besides the money, what do you enjoy about being a bartender?

As a bartender I enjoy any interesting subject outside of sex, religion, and politics. However, one on one I will discuss those subjects. Bottom line is I like intelligent conversations.

What makes a good customer?

OK, I admit I’m kind of weird about this. It’s one who treats a bartender or anyone in the service industry as a fellow human being, not as some type of super being, or robot if you’d like. All of us have feelings and lives outside of work. I’m not sure all patrons really truly think about that.

What is your pet peeve about bartending?

That really involves the patron not giving me a complete order of drinks. I can memorize up to and sometimes more than sixteen drinks or shots at one time. When my bar is busy, I cannot afford partial drink orders. For instance, “I will take two Bud Lights.” “OK, now I need a rum and Coke.” OK, I need two Cuervo shots.” Enough! Just give me your full order.

What is the craziest thing you’ve ever seen from behind the bar?

There are so many things, but I’ll just go with this one. When I worked at (a bar in Montrose), I was working alongside another bartender. One evening he said, “We have a bad drug problem here.” I told him, “OK, Sure.” He said, “I’m going to prove it to you.” Again, I said, “OK sure.” After that I went to the restroom and when I came back, he had put a line of Sweet ‘N Low on the bar. I came behind the bar and got some ice for my well and when I went around the corner, a patron was sniffing it up with a straw. I just remember my colleague thinking that it was so funny.

What do you do for fun? Any hobbies?

I like camping… love the beach… river rafting. Anything involving the sun.

When can we catch you for a drink?

I’m at Robert’s Lafitte Friday through Monday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The day bartender. Come see me!

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