A hamburger and fries are on the table.

AROUND TOWN | When it comes to dining, this city never sleeps

By Jim Ayres

Happy Thanksgiving, MONTROSE STAR readers! I’m writing this at 5 p.m. on Tuesday, November 3. That means shortly afterward, we’ll either still have much to be thankful for, or a whole bursting-at-the-seams horn o’plenty to rejoice and be thankful for.

Just a few notes about dining around town as I gear up for the “I’ll have seconds and thirds†guzzle fest that is the holiday season.

Perry’s pork chop: Delivered

If I’m honest, the last few months have not been a complete culinary blowout for me. Surgeries, work, and COVID have co-conspired to keep me sedentary, so I’m not eating as much as I could. But that Perry’s promotional email reached out from my inbox and grabbed me. Fifty percent off that famous pork chop? I couldn’t resist.

Of course, I didn’t expect that it would be as fine a specimen as what I’d get in their dining room. But not only was I pleasantly surprised, but the big hulking thing was also exactly what would be served at the restaurant. Warm, juicy, thick with delicious meat, this chop made me giddy that I was carving it in my own kitchen.

And it was delicious. Easily enough for two or even three meals. The wedge salad and whipped potatoes were also first-rate. To repeat my experience, order the Autumn 3-Course Dinner for $45. It’s well worth the splurge.

On the other end of the spectrum

If you’re a DoorPass member (that’s DoorDash’s loyalty program) you get free delivery from most restaurants with a $12 order. A few restaurants don’t participate, and that, unfortunately, includes The Burger Joint. But a block away, the Hay Merchant does. I ordered the Cease and Desist burger, with Underbelly’s famous Vinegar Pie for dessert.

Hay Merchant, you can do a lot better than the burned 45 rpm single of a patty delivered to me. Friends, it was awful — and this coming from a place that has won numerous media (or should I say PR) awards for that very burger.

The Vinegar Pie, as always, was magnificent. I’ve always wondered how they make that glorious layer of amber sugar glass that goes between the filling and the crust. I looked it up, and let’s just say, I’ll let the pastry chef continue making it for me.

An unexpected treat

Two Sunday evenings ago, I did make it out to Heights Asian Café (2201 Yale) to meet friends for dinner. The bounty here was excellent. We started with Pork Lettuce Wraps (fun to assemble, fun to eat). The big iceberg lettuce leaves were as crisp as could be, and the ground pork glistened with a sauce that brought forth deep umami flavor.

A vermicelli bowl, full of chicken, vegetables, noodles, and broth, was the most comforting dish I’ve had in many months. It was certainly enough for two, but I slurped the whole bowl down with complete joy and no guilt. Really, it’s an extremely healthy dish!

Thanks for reading! Who knows what I’ll have for you in my holiday column, but it’s sure to be tantalizing.

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